Greetings, dear readers! Today we will analyze in detail such a topic as Rothband gypsum plaster in the bathroom (or MP-75 for machine application), using the example of everyday bathroom repair as “IMPROVED” category repair. The conversation will not focus on repairing the bathroom as a whole, but on Rothband plaster ( or MP75) because manufacturers do not recommend other gypsum plasters in bathrooms. It contains additives that give strength to calmly serve as a base for tiles (or other decorative materials) for at least 15 -25 years. This information is very useful for asters and not only who uses the Rothband in the bathrooms. And so let’s go. After dismantling the bathroom and toilet (combined), it turned out that the walls were painted with oil paint (option with such a basis)
We start to beat off the paint with a wide spatula from the punch, holding it straight, gradually we take it to the side (punch for the slotting function)
Concrete is poorly absorbing water, if there are small pieces of unrefined well-held paint, do not worry, we leave it as it is.
We de-dust it with any ordinary primer (of any company) by diluting it with half water (meaning only to dust it off, concrete is not needed on non-absorbable water.
Then after 2 -3 hours, apply a highly adhesive primer Betocontact of such a company (tested, weigh) Knauf has a rest, if it isn’t much in your area, find that it is written on the bank for indoor and outdoor use, this will do.
Apply the soil with a brush with a mowing knife – rub horizontally
Have put soil we wait 10-12 hours.
We begin the installation of beacons – here we read carefully. The beacons should be installed below the ceiling (from a high point) by 15 mm and not reach the floor 15mm – later you will find out what it is for.
I didn’t especially ground the cracks on the wall, the plaster will close it closely and make these places durable. We make the digs from Rothband every 50-60 cm, press down with a rule with a level and then close the lighthouse completely with plaster (it takes no more than 10 minutes to install one lighthouse)
When mixing into the plaster, add no more than 20 liters of water to the bag — that’s how it should be, it should not fall off the spatula quickly.
- 1 hour after installing all the beacons, proceed to the plaster, the minimum thickness of the plaster is 10 mm
After a day, you can speed up the drying process using an electric fan or a gun (the process of hydrating the plaster takes only 2-3 hours), so artificial drying will not affect the plaster for the worse, unlike cement.
A screed with a damper tape is added from below and these 15 mm will not allow sucking moisture from the floor slab (we take care of the plaster from below)
after screed, after three days you can plaster the bottom of the plaster (dries quickly)
Starting from the fourth row, we lay the tile to the top. The lower part (which will fit the bath (also all adjacencies to the floor and around water outlets and outlets of the sewer pipe are primed with such soil.
It is needed for good adhesion of acrylic waterproofing. Acrylic hydra does not adhere very well to gypsum plaster)
We use this waterproofing
We apply it to a height of 40-50 cm from the edge of the bathtub – for Rothband this protection is enough, prime the other places with any soil (deep or normal, it doesn’t matter) If cheap grouts are used, then waterproof the entire wet area.
We also make waterproofing under the bathroom
After drying, we lay the tiles and install the bathtub (you can even lay the entire floor with tiles, acting according to the situation), it does not really matter.
Now the main feature of the Rotband’s protection against leaks from above is that the tile should not reach the top of the plaster by 0.5 cm -1 cm-we do the tide under the bevel with the same plaster, we do not touch the gap between the wall and the ceiling.
After drying, the next day we apply to waterproof on top of the plaster (again, do not touch the joints – in the event of a flood, water will flow along the path of least resistance, over the waterproofing and will go over the tile (Rotband is completely protected)
We change the standard corrugation to drain onto the pipe (by the way, the screen is made home-made from EPPSS and a 5-5 mm fiberglass mesh to tile glue, it is absolutely not afraid of water)
hydra along the entire perimeter of the half-wall using a corner tape for waterproofing KILTO
In addition, that hydra walked around the water outlets.
After the tile, we pass in silicone, again making the tide – in any case, water will go over the tile.
Around the bathtub before laying the last row of tiles, walk the entire perimeter with silicone
The corners and all adjacencies are also silicon, the screen under the bathroom is silicone in the color of the tile.
We finish the final finish on this, calmly and confidently leave this object. Later there will be examples on other types of substrates (GAS AND FOAM BLOCKS, GYPSOBETON, OLD AND STRONGER CEMENT PLASTERS, PSP, BRICK AND TD) and how to properly prepare them for the tile, using Rothband. Good luck to everyone, bye.